COCO CHANNEL | Coco Chanel |
Her Life, Her Secret | Hidupnya dan rahasianya
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Marcel Haedrich | Marcel Haedrich
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Translated from the French by Charles Lam
Markmann | Diterjemahkan dari Bahasa Perancis oleh
Charles Lam Markmann
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With illustration
Little, Brown and Company. Boston.
Toronto
| Dengan gambar
Little, Brown and Company, Boston
Toronto |
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For Andree- if not the creation, the creator | Untuk Andree jika tidak ciptaannya,
penciptanya.
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With thanks to my friend Herve’ Mile.
Without him, without his help, this book
could not have been written. | Ucapan terimakasih untuk temanku
Herve’ Mille.
Tanpanya, tanpa bantuannya, buku ini
tidak dapat ditulis.
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Chanel created a feminine character such as
Paris had never before known. | Chanel menciptakan tokoh wanita yang
belum pernah Paris kenal sebelumnya
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Maurice Sachs |
Maurice Sachs
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COCO CHANEL | COCO CHANEL |
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1.“Those on Whom Legends Are Built Are Their Legends”
| 1.Kepada siapa Legenda itu Dibuat
Adalah Legenda itu Sendiri
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I first met Coco Chanel in 1958. | Pertama kali saya bertemu Coco Chanel
tahun 1958.
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She was seventy-five years old- a prodigy
beatified.
| Dia berumur 75 tahun seorang yang luar
biasa periang. |
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And triumphant: she had imposed her
style on the whole world.
| Dan merasa menang dia telah
memberlakukan gayanya ke seluruh dunia. |
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Because she had succeeded in every-thing
in her life, I urged her to describe her
victories into the tape recorder. | Karena dia telah berhasil dalam segala hal
dalam hidupnya, saya mendorongnya
untuk memerikan masa kejayaannya ke
dalam alat perekam.
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She murmured into the microphone: “ I
don’t even know whether I’ve been
happy.”
| Dia bergumam ke dalam pengeras suara
“Saya bahkan tidak tahu apakah saya
bahagia.” |
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She would say: “ every day I simplify
something because every day I learn
something.” | Dia akan mengatakan: “ setiap hari saya
selalu membuat hal menjadi sederhana
dan setiap hari saya belajar sesuatu.”
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She would say: ”When I can no longer
create anything, I’ll be done for.” |
Dikatakannya: “ Saat saya tidak bisa lagi
menciptakan apa-apa, saya sudah tamat.”
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She would say: “ There goes a woman who
knows all the things that can be taught and
none of the things that cannot be taught.”
| Katanya lagi: “ Itulah wanita yang tahu
semuanya yang bisa diajarkan kepadanya
dan tidak ada satupun yang tidak bisa
dipelajari.”
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She would say: “ Youth is something very
new: twenty years ago no one mentioned
it.” | Dia akan berkata :“ Masa muda adalah
hal yang baru: dua puluh tahun yang lalu
tidak ada seorang pun menyebutnya.”
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She said too: “ Only truth has no frontiers.” | Dia juga mengatakan: “ Hanya kejujuran
yang tanpa pamrih.”
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And this: “ There is only one thing about
which I am still curious: death.”
| Tambahan lagi: “ Hanya ada satu hal
yang membuat saya masih penasaran
yaitu kematian.”
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From the flood of her talk I sifted the
nuggets- though not all of them. | Dari luapan pembicaraannya, saya
memilah intisarinya- walaupun tidak
semuanya.
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She spoke rapidly, and I had to become
accustomed to her muted voice. | Dia bicara cepat dan saya harus terbiasa
akan kata yang tak terucapkan.
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I thought she was overly made up,
aggressively made up, with too-red lips,
oversized and over blackened eyebrows,
harshly dyed hair. | Saya pikir dia berhias terlalu berlebihan,
mencolok, dengan bibir yang terlalu
merah, dan alis yang terlalu tebal,
terlampau hitam serta rambutnya yang
pewarnaannya tidak merata.
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That was my first impression of her: an
almost outrageously done-up old lady who
talked end-lessly.
| Itu adalah kesan pertama saya tentangnya
yaitu seorang wanita tua yang berhias
sangat berlebihan yang bicara tiada
habisnya.
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She was two year older than my mother. | Dia berumur dua tahun lebih tua dari ibu
saya.
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That thought occurred to me as I was
asking myself: what are you, the Alsatian
of Alsatians, doing here at Coco Chanel’s?
| Pikiran itu ada pada saya saat saya
bertanya pada diri saya sendiri: siapakah
anda, pelindung dari segala pelindung ada
di sini di Coco Chanel. |
she intimidated me. |
Beliau menakut-nakuti saya.
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I opened my ears. |
Saya buka telinga.
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To enter her presence was to step into a
monologue. | Untuk masuk dalam keberadaannya adalah
melangkah kepercakapan satu arah. |
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I opened my eyes as well. | Saya juga buka mata. |
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I was in the presence of a national
monument: how does one examine the
Eiffel Tower? My own mental image of
Coco Chanel had been conventional. | Saya berada di hadapan monumen
nasional: bagaimana kita meneliti menara
Eiffel? Citra mental saya sendiri terhadap
Coco Chanel adalah konvensional |
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I knew that she had been very beautiful. | Saya tahu dia dulunya cantik sekali.
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I knew a celebrity of La Belle Epoque had
discovered her in Moulins, a cavalry
garrison, and brought her to Paris, where
she proceeded to liberate woman kind from
corsets: and that she had created a fashion
“look” and a famous perfume: and that the
Duke of Westminster had covered her with
jewels (eight yards of pearls, shovelfuls of
emeralds and diamonds): and that she had
launched the little black dress, short hair,
costume jewelry, et cetera. | Saya kenal seorang ternama dari La Belle
Epoque yang telah menemukannya di
Mouline, tempat pasukan berkuda penjaga
benteng kota dan membawanya ke Paris.
Di Paris ini Coco Chanel meneruskan
pembebasan wanita dari korset, dan dia
telah menciptakan ‘ gaya busana yang
lain dari yang lain’ dan minyak wangi
ternama: dan Duke Westminster telah
memberinya hadiah berupa perhiasan
(kalung mutiara sepanjang delapan yard
, dipenuhi jambrut dan intan): dia telah
meluncurkan gaun hitam pendek, rambut
pendek, perhiasan busana, dan seterusnya.
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Coco Chanel! In her drawing room I was in
Ali Baba’s cave with the treasures of
Golconda-calamander screens, mother of
pearl, ebony, ivory, deer and lions, gold
and crystal, masks, a wall of rare books,
spheres magic, the scent of tuberoses | Coco Chanel! Dikamar tamunya
membuatku seperti di goa Alibaba dengan
harta karun layar Golconda-Calamander,
mutiara indung, kayu ebony, gading,
rusa, singa, emas dan kristal, topeng,
tembok penuh dengan buku langka, sphere
magic, aroma tuberoses.
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It was Byzantium and the imperial palace
of China, Ptolemy’s Egypt and, in the
mirrors above the fireplace, reflection of
Greece with a fourth-century Aphrodite
side by side with a fantastic raging wild
boar, a meteorite that had fallen from the
sky on Mongolia thousand of years ago--
everything agglomerated and
conglomerated, mingled and mangled,
ordered into a disorder magnificently made
harmonious by Coco’s taste. . | Itulah Byzantium dan istana kekaisaran
China, Mesir Ptolemy, dan, di cermin di
atas perapian, bayangan Yunani
dengan Aprodit abad ke empat
bersebelahan dengan babi hutan liar yang
sangat mengamuk, meteor yang telah
jatuh dari langit di Mongolia ribuan tahun
lalu-- semua menumpuk,, menggumpal,
diatur kedalam ke tidak aturan yang
menakjubkan dibuat harmonis oleh
selera Coco.
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It was sumptuous-- too much for me.
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Sangat berlebihan--terlalu banyak untuk
saya. |
Could anyone live in this?
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Dapatkah seseorang tinggal di kamar tamu
semacam itu.
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Sleep, make love on that couch?
I had asked myself the same questions in the
Borgias’ apartments in the Vatican: could
anyone really breathe, eat, drink, kiss in
such magnificence?
| Tidur dan bercinta di atas sofa?
Saya telah bertanya pertanyaan yang
sama pada diri saya sendiri di apartemen
Borgias di Vatikan: dapatkah seseorang
benar-benar bernapas, makan, minum dan
berciuman dalam suasana demikian
menakjubkan ?
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Against that setting?
| Pada tata latar yang demikian? |
Did the Pope keep his
biretta on when his barber was shaving
him? | Apakah Paus mempertahankan topinya
saat tukang cukurnya memotong
rambutnya?
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Coco never removed her hat on her
visits to herself in the Chanel Museum.
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Coco tidak pernah melepaskan topinya
pada kunjungannya di Museum Chanel
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That day (my notes begin with the date of 1
August 1959) the hat was a flat, broad-
brimmed straw, with a large jewel pinned
at the front. | Hari itu ( catatan saya mulai tanggal 1
Agustus 1959) topi jerami yang datar,
berpinggiran lebar dengan perhiasan besar
disematkan di depan. |
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Coco was wearing a suit cut from a very
light, almost white material with a vague
hint of pale gold. | Coco memakai setelan dari bahan tipis
berwarna putih pucat keemasan.
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She tugged at her jacket, and all the time
she was talking she never stopped smoking.
| Dia menarik-narik jaketnya, dan
sementara dia berbicara dia tidak pernah
berhenti merokok. |
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“When all this brouhaha is over, I am going
to change several of the models,” she said.
| “Saat semua brouhaha ini selesai, saya
akan mulai merubah beberapa model,”
katanya. |
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Accompanied by Herve Mille, I had just
seen a Saturday showing of her collection
for store buyers. | Ditemani oleh Herve Mille, saya telah
melihat pagelaran busana di akhir pekan
yang menampilkan koleksinya pada
pembeli-pembeli di toko. |
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At the time I was editor in Marie-Claire,
but I paid virtually no attention to fashion,
since I was convinced that I knew nothing
about it; and besides it did not interest me.
| Pada waktu itu, saya adalah penyunting di
di Marie-Claire, tapi saya tidak begitu
memperhatikan gaya busana, karena saya
yakin bahwa saya tidak tahu apa-apa
tentang hal itu: dan selain itu saya tidak
tertarik dengan busana.
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